Hello Namibia

 Thursday afternoon we took a Federal Air flight from camp to the Johannesburg airport. It was a larger plane than we had taken into camp, but the trip took much longer - about 90 minutes as opposed to 50. We landed at the same small charter field as before and inquired about a shuttle to Terminal B to catch our Airlink flight to Windhoek. We were told it would leave shortly. Not exactly. The van was packed with people and they kept bringing different pieces of luggage, asking Is this yours. We identified our luggage 3 times. When the luggage was finally sorted, we drove away and the driver told us there had been an accident on the highway into the airport, so we would be taking an alternative route. It took plenty long. Then we stopped at Terminal A where half the passengers got off. Finally we got to Terminal B and saw huge lines for South Africa Air. I was so tired it took me a minute to realize we were not on that airline, and there was no line at Airlink. Nevertheless the lady told us we did not have much time. We had to walk all the way back to terminal A to get through security. Then another long line for passport control. Finally we had a trek to the gate, where we mercifully learned the flight was late. They let us start down the jetbridge, and then we stopped and waited over 15 minutes before they let us board. We plopped into our seats for the 2-hour flight to Windhoek. 

There was a lady holding a sign with our names and we were led to a small office. Nick visited an ATM. The men in the office said our guide Charles would pick us up from the hotel at 9 am. Our guide’s name was supposed to be Forester, but they said you are getting Charles, and he’s good too. We were driven through the dark streets to the Olive Grove Guesthouse, an over 45 minute drive. The roads are narrow and there is lots of passing. At least the roads were very smooth. We got to the hotel, and the office was closed, but there was a young man who checked our names on a clipboard, grabbed our suitcases and headed up two flights of outdoor stairs to our room. It was large which is about the only nice thing I can say about it. Concrete floors throughout, a grungy toilet and an uncomfortable bed. I had originally booked another night here before our return home - so glad I canceled that. 

In the morning, we showered, and went to breakfast at 8:15 which should have been plenty of time for our 9 am departure. It was not. The menu had several tantalizing options, but after bringing us coffee and “cold buffet” nobody would take our order for the hot food. Finally we got someone’s attention and ordered. Our guide Charles showed up at 8:50, but we said we were waiting for our eggs, so he went inside and hung out with Esther, the other Boundless Journeys guest on our itinerary. Finally my mushroom omelette came, and it looked good but it seemed someone had substituted sugar for salt - it had an off putting sweet taste. Nick shared some of his pancakes with me. Also not ideal as they were blueberry pancakes which I had a bad experience with in my childhood so never eat. 

Finally we went to find Charles and Esther and begin our Namibian adventure. Charles provided each of us with a water bottle, and we boarded a large van. Esther took the front row, and Nick and I the middle. Charles gave us some facts and figures about Windhoek (means Windy Corner, population 300,000, built between two mountains, designated the cleanest city in the world) and Namibia (population 3,000,000, gained some independence from South Africa in 1990 and full independence in 1994). We passed Hero’s Acre with a Washington Monument type obelisk; Charles said this is where the presidents and ministers are celebrated and buried. 

We passed savanna, with many bushes and trees. It looked very dry. Charles said they have been in a drought since 2011. We stopped in Rehoboth, a town the Germans had settled. Charles said the natives are a mix of German and African heritage and have much lighter skin tones than other Namibians. We stopped at a pharmacy as Esther thinks she picked up a cold on the plane. I was able to buy some pain medication with aspirin, as I’m still experiencing a fast pulse on exertion. I looked for baby aspirin but they didn’t have it, so this will have to do. Back in the van, we talked about each other’s backgrounds. Esther worked for several government agencies, including the EPA. She worked in offices of inspectors general. She is retired now and has traveled extensively. 

Just outside of Rehoboth, we turned onto a gravel highway. We had another 5 and 1/2 hours to our first camp, apparently all on this type of road. It was noisy and it was bumpy. Sometimes the car would drop suddenly down a hill. It was hard to hear each other. Overall unexpectedly unpleasant. We stopped to look at a village called Klein Aub, which means Small Springs. It had a tin mine that produced lots of jobs before the demand for tin went down in 1992. There’s a large area of debris from the mine that looks like snow. Four years ago the demand came back, and there’s hope the village will thrive again. They all became farmers which is another risky business with the drought. 

We now passed through the semi-savanna. There were a few less trees and bushes. We saw some donkeys on the side of the road. Charles said that donkey carts are a main source of transportation. We saw some beautiful flat-topped mountains. The area was very reminiscent of New Mexico. We passed into the semi-desert area with even more beautiful mountains. At one point we stopped under a tree and ate box lunches. Probably I have been spoiled by the food at Leopard Hills. 

We saw some Quiver trees, also known as upside down trees. The San people used the hollow branches for holding their arrows. When the leaves are stripped off, the branches look like roots. We saw some Oryx which is Namibia’s national animal because they are found all over the country. They are the most adapted to the desert. When they get too hot, they  pant like dogs, but through their noses. We saw several, including one who only had one horn. 

We then turned into the Namib desert, the world’s oldest desert. The beautiful shades of sand stretching in front of the gorgeous mountains was breathtaking. Charles pointed out some Fairy rings, which are circular formations in the sand that no one knows how they are formed. Finally, we turned down the road for the Kulala Desert Lodge. After awhile we arrived and were greeted by Maureen, and told about the facility. There are large open air lounges and dining areas, a pool and several tented suites. The setting looks west across the desert to the mountains. Sunsets will surely be beautiful. To get to our tent we have to walk down a steep narrow path with a drop off at one point. Then we walk up four steps into the tent. Again, I am spoiled by the luxuriousness of Leopard Hills, but Nick points out it beats the Olive Grove Guesthouse. Nick and Esther will take a walk with Charles, but I plan to pass and just enjoy the view.